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ShuTravelDiary

Chengdu Day 4: Wenshu Monastery, Du Fu Thatched Cottage, Huanhua Xi Park, Manhua Manor & People's Park Heming Teahouse

Updated: Sep 21

16 March 2024


WENSHU MONASTERY


My first destination of the day was Wenshu Monastery (文殊院), a serene sanctuary amidst the hustle and bustle of Chengdu. With over 1,400 years of history, it was originally built between 605 and 617 AD during the Daye era of the Sui Dynasty. The temple was rebuilt in 1697 during the reign of Emperor Kangxi (康熙), funded by donations from the community, and renamed Wenshu Monastery.


Today, it stands as the most well-preserved Buddhist temple in Chengdu, offering a glimpse into the city’s rich spiritual and architectural heritage. The temple faces south, a typical design for ancient structures in the Sichuan region, and features traditional wooden architecture that evokes a sense of tranquility. It seamlessly blends ancient garden designs with sacred Zen relics (禅林圣迹), making it a destination for not only pilgrims but also tourists interested in culture, history, and religion.


Wenshu Monastery is the temple of Manjushri Bodhisattva (文殊菩萨), who represents wisdom. Many students and professionals come here to pray for wisdom and success in their studies and careers.


One of the highlights of Wenshu Monastery is the Thousand Buddha Pagoda (万佛塔), where visitors can walk around the pagoda three times, a ritual believed to bring peace and good fortune. The temple is also known for its sacred relics, including Buddha’s relics and the skull of the famous monk Xuanzang (唐僧玄奘), who brought many Buddhist texts from India to China during the Tang Dynasty. These relics are highly revered and draw visitors from all over the country.


Outside the temple, you’ll find red walls with golden characters that read, “World Peace, Human Happiness” (世界和平, 人类幸福). This has become a must-visit photo spot for many tourists, so don’t be surprised if you find a line of people waiting to take their picture, especially under the characters "Happiness" (幸福). While it’s fine to snap photos outside, remember that photography of Buddha statues inside the monastery is discouraged out of respect.


The walls read 幸、福、和、平, which translates to happiness and peace.


Be mindful of the fortune-tellers who often gather near the entrance or exit. They might offer to read your fortune, but it’s best to politely decline and avoid eye contact. There are also people handing out amulets, claiming that you have a special connection to Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. They’ll then ask you to make a donation and record your name. After some research, I found that these are scams. Luckily, the lady who approached me wasn’t aggressive, so I simply declined her offer politely and continued on my way.


Address: No. 66 Wenshu Monastery Street, Qingyang District, Chengdu, Sichuan Province

四川省成都市青羊区文殊院街66号

Opening Hours: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM


DONGZI KOUZHANG LAO’ER LIANGFEN

Before leaving, I made a stop at Dongzikou Zhang Lao’er Liangfen (洞子口·张老二凉粉), a stall right outside the monastery that has been serving cold noodles for over 30 years. There was a bit of a line, but that’s usually a good sign! The cold noodles, soft and chewy, were packed with flavour thanks to their homemade fermented bean paste and secret sweet sauce. If you’re in the area, I highly recommend giving this Chengdu street snack a try—it’s refreshing, delicious, and adds a perfect local touch to your visit.


I ordered the cold noodles (凉粉) to-go, so that I can enjoy the Chengdu street snack on the move.


DU FU THATCHED COTTAGE

After exploring Wenshu Monastery, my next stop was the Du Fu Thatched Cottage (杜甫草堂), a national 4A-level scenic site that has been continuously restored and expanded throughout history. This historical gem was the former residence of the great Tang Dynasty poet Du Fu, who lived here during his time in Chengdu. Du Fu lived here for nearly four years and wrote over 240 poems, infusing the city of Chengdu with a poetic soul. Among these, his famous piece, "My Thatched Roof Was Ruined by the Autumn Wind"《茅屋为秋风所破歌》, vividly reflects both the hardship and humanity of his time.


Interestingly, this serene site was rediscovered by the poet Wei Zhuang during the late Tang Dynasty, who took it upon himself to rebuild it with a thatched roof to preserve Du Fu's legacy. Throughout the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, the cottage underwent numerous restorations, and today, it retains the layout from its reconstruction during the Qing Dynasty. It feels incredible to walk in a place that has witnessed so much history, imagining Du Fu himself composing verses in the same tranquil setting.


The thatched cottage that Du Fu stayed in during his time in Chengdu.


The garden surrounding the cottage is a peaceful oasis, with lush greenery, bamboo groves, red walls, and winding pathways. There’s something undeniably calming about the simplicity of the thatched cottages and bamboo fences. The landscape itself feels like stepping into one of Du Fu's poems—perhaps it's the serenity of the place, or maybe the thought that these same gardens once inspired his works.





There were lots of flowers in the scenic area as well.


I opted for a guided tour at 20 RMB to better understand Du Fu’s life and the significance of the cottage. Our guide, knowledgeable and engaging, walked us through key points: Du Fu’s struggles, the construction of the cottage, and the tragic events of his later years. One particularly poignant moment was learning about Du Fu’s declining health and his possible battle with diabetes. The tour took us to the Grand Hall (大廨), the Flower Path (花径)—an excellent photo spot, and the Shaoling Stele Pavilion (少陵碑亭) with its calligraphy by Prince Yun Lii (爱新觉罗·胤礼). For those who have watched the popular Chinese drama, Empresses in the Palace (甄嬛传), that is actually Prince Guo (果郡王). That was an expected surprise, haha >.<! She also urged us to touch the fingers of Du Fu’s statue as a symbolic gesture for good fortune and draw from Du Fu’s poetic talent.


A statue of Du Fu.


The calligraphy"少陵碑亭" written by Prince Guo.


Reflections on Du Fu’s Life

Du Fu came to Chengdu around 759 AD, seeking refuge from the chaos of the An Lushan Rebellion. This turbulent period of political upheaval forced him to wander for much of his life, but Chengdu, at that time, was a peaceful haven. Invited by the local official Yan Wu (严武), Du Fu found temporary solace here and even built a modest thatched cottage by the Huanhua River, where he could finally settle and write.


Yet, despite the brief respite Chengdu provided, Du Fu’s life was marked by sorrow. His health deteriorated, and he left Chengdu in 765 AD, driven by regional conflicts and the death of his patron. His departure marked the beginning of the end, as he spent the remainder of his life travelling through China, ultimately passing away on the road. Even in his final years, though, Du Fu’s poetic voice never faltered, with many of his most powerful works reflecting his empathy for the suffering of others.


His posthumous fame only grew in subsequent centuries, as his deeply moral and socially conscious poetry struck a chord with later generations. It’s no wonder he earned the title "Poet Sage" (诗圣), revered for his moral depth and poetic skill. His works remain a model for aspiring poets, embodying Confucian ideals and a love for humanity.


A Deeper Look at His Friendship with Li Bai 

An intriguing aspect of Du Fu’s life, which I learnt during the tour, is his relationship with Li Bai (李白), another legendary poet of the Tang Dynasty. Despite their contrasting personalities—Li Bai being carefree and adventurous, while Du Fu was more grounded—their mutual respect shaped one of the most celebrated friendships in Chinese literary history. Du Fu’s admiration for Li Bai shines through in poems like "Dreaming of Li Bai" 《梦李白》, where he expresses concern for his friend’s wandering lifestyle. This relationship adds yet another layer of richness to Du Fu’s life story, reflecting the complexities of both his personal connections and his poetic influences.


Before he ever came to Chengdu, Du Fu had endured hardship and a life of wandering. His departure from the city was no different, as he was again cast adrift by circumstances beyond his control. The image of him, lonely and destitute, wandering in search of stability until his death, is a haunting one.


The Present-Day Du Fu Thatched Cottage 

Today, the scenic area around the cottage is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. Tea houses and souvenir shops line the pathways, and the atmosphere is one of calm and reflection. I even saw children feeding koi fish by the pond, adding to the serenity of the scene. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or simply looking for a peaceful stroll, this place offers an intimate connection to both nature and history.


One of the teahouses located in the scenic area.


Children feeding the koi fishes in the scenic area.


Address: No. 37 Qinghua Road, Qingyang District, Chengdu, Sichuan Province

四川省成都市青羊区青华路37号

Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM (last entry at 5:00 PM)

Ticket Price:

Adults: 50 RMB

Students: Half-price with valid ID

Seniors (60+): Free with valid ID


HUANHUA XI PARK 

After immersing myself in the poetic world of Du Fu, I wandered into Huanhua Xi Park (浣花溪公园), conveniently located right next to the Du Fu Thatched Cottage. Covering over 32 hectares, Huanhua Xi is Chengdu’s only 5-star park. The park is a blend of natural beauty and cultural elements—red plum blossoms, bamboo forests, and streams all come together to create a harmonious landscape.





A serene and relaxing stroll through the park, surrounded by flowers and trees.


It’s no wonder Du Fu found inspiration here. In fact, it was during his time in this area that he wrote, “黄四娘家花满蹊,千朵万朵压枝低。”, which translates to "At Lady Huang’s home, the path is filled with flowers, the branches are weighed down by thousands of blossoms." The park’s natural beauty feels like a continuation of his poetic spirit. As I strolled along the stone bridges and sculptures, it was easy to lose myself in the tranquillity of the place.


A stone sculpture shaped like an open book, surrounded by greenery and ferns, bears the characters "故乡诗篇" ("Poems of the Hometown"), a poetic tribute to Chengdu.


Two ladies enjoying a leisurely stroll through the park, looking really calm and relaxed as they take in the peaceful surroundings.


The park is also a haven for wildlife, particularly egrets, making it a popular spot for birdwatchers and photographers. During my visit, I saw a young girl flying a kite with her mother—a simple yet heartwarming moment that added to the park’s peaceful atmosphere.


The little girl was really excited to fly the kite!


There was also a group of locals playing chess in the pavilions.


It was interesting to watch the game of chess being played.


For anyone visiting Chengdu, I highly recommend this park as a place to reflect, unwind, and reconnect with nature. The entrance is free, and it's open from 6.00 am to 10.00 pm, offering plenty of time to explore.


MANHUA MANOR

Manhua Manor (漫花庄园) is a perfect destination for anyone who loves being surrounded by a sea of vibrant flowers. With its ever-changing blooms, it offers an ideal backdrop for photography enthusiasts. Each month highlights different types of flowers, so it’s worth checking what’s in season before visiting if you’re hoping to catch specific blooms like cherry blossoms or roses. But no matter the time of year, there’s always something in full bloom, making the manor a fantastic year-round spot.


Besides admiring the flowers, there are also activities that visitors can participate in for a fee. Here, people are leisurely enjoying boat rides under the pink blooms.


There is also a display of lupins in a stunning array of colors.


Radiant poppies in full bloom.


I visited in March, when the cherry blossoms were at their peak. Seeing them in full bloom this early in the year was truly a delight—proof that you don’t have to travel to Japan to enjoy the beauty of cherry blossoms. Even though the manor attracted many visitors, its spacious layout made it easy to capture beautiful shots of the blossoms without crowds obstructing the view.


Close up shot of the cherry blossoms.


In addition to the cherry blossoms, I was lucky enough to see a vibrant array of tulips in full bloom. The variety of colours was captivating, adding even more charm to the landscape. Unfortunately, the roses weren’t in season during my visit, which would have been another gorgeous highlight.


Look at the vivid red of these tulips. No filter needed!


Unfortunately, there were no roses in sight.


One thing to note is that regular announcements reminded visitors to take care of the surroundings and stay vigilant about pickpockets. While the peaceful scenery invites you to relax, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your belongings.


Address: Shulong Avenue in Xindu District, Chengdu

成都市新都区蜀龙大道

Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM

Ticket Price:

51 RMB for adults

98 RMB for combo ticket with access to the glass bridge


PEOPLE'S PARK HEMING TEAHOUSE

To round off my day in Chengdu, I visited the famous Heming Teahouse (鹤鸣茶社) located in People’s Park (人民公园) to experience traditional Gaiwan tea (盖碗茶). While Chengdu is filled with trendy milk tea shops, the locals have preserved their love for traditional tea culture, and Gaiwan tea is an iconic part of that. Known as the "three-part bowl" (三オ碗), Gaiwan tea consists of a lid representing the sky, a saucer symbolising the earth, and a bowl representing humanity, embodying the harmony between heaven, earth, and people.


A Gaiwan tea from Heming teahouse.


Established in 1923, Heming Teahouse is one of the top six teahouses in Chengdu and one of the most renowned in China. It once hosted over 3,000 visitors at its peak. Its rich history is reflected in the "Heming" signboard, penned by famous calligrapher Wang Jiazhen (王稼桢) in 1940.



Most locals flock to the teahouse for morning tea, making it difficult to find a prime seat by the river if you arrive later in the day. To avoid the morning crowds, I opted for an evening visit, where the atmosphere was much quieter.


The teahouse offers a wide selection of teas and traditional Chengdu snacks. I ordered Tieguanyin tea (铁观音) for 23 RMB, along with a 68 RMB set meal. However, the panda-shaped tangyuan wasn’t included in the set and had to be ordered separately for 7 RMB. The tangyuan had a sweet rose-flavoured filling (玫瑰糖), which was quite different from the usual sesame or peanut paste fillings commonly found in Singapore. While I wasn’t particularly impressed with the set meal, the Zhong dumplings and sweet water noodles were delicious and made up for it.


What I ordered. All items are part of the 68 RMB set except for panda tangyuan. The food and tea need to be ordered separately.


Look at how cute the panda tangyuan is.


The tea I had.

The evening ambience was beautiful and relaxed, with the teahouse illuminated. However, I recommend arriving earlier, as popular food items might sell out. For instance, the 88 RMB set meal I initially planned to try was sold out by the time I arrived.



Lantern statues light up at night.


What I loved most about Heming Teahouse is how it embodies the leisurely lifestyle of Chengdu locals. Many people were gathered around tables, sipping tea and playing mahjong—an activity that perfectly captures the essence of what locals call “巴适” (bāshì), meaning leisurely or laid-back. This spirit of relaxation is deeply rooted in Chengdu’s culture and can be found everywhere, even in souvenirs. I picked up a cake decorated with the word "巴适" to remind me of this. You can read more about it in this post.


While Heming Teahouse is the highlight, People’s Park itself is famous for its matchmaking corner. I learned from my guide the day before that parents gather here to post their children’s profiles, detailing their jobs, education, and other important criteria in hopes of finding a good match—very much like résumés!


Address: People’s Park, 12 Shaocheng Rd, Qingyang District, Chengdu

成都市青羊区少城路12号人民公园

Opening Hours: 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM


OVERALL

My trip to Chengdu was nothing short of remarkable. From its deep historical roots to its serene natural landscapes, Chengdu truly invites you to slow down, savour each moment, and explore its many treasures—be it through ancient poetry, winding streets, or peaceful bamboo groves. Though my time here was brief, it left a lasting impression. I look forward to returning one day to uncover even more of its hidden gems.



Until next time, Chengdu!


Love,

Shu

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