15 March 2024
MOUNT QINGCHENG
Nestled in the lush landscapes of Chengdu, Mount Qingcheng (青城山) stands as a serene sanctuary and a cradle of Taoism. This sacred mountain, with its rich history and natural beauty, offers a perfect escape for those seeking peace, spirituality, and a touch of adventure.
Mount Qingcheng is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a 5A scenic area. Celebrated as one of the birthplaces of Taoism, it is a pilgrimage site for devotees and an attraction for those intrigued by its ancient teachings. The mountain’s trails are lush with greenery and dotted with ancient temples and pavilions, each echoing with the profound tranquility that defines Taoism.
How to Explore:
Mount Qingcheng is divided into the front mountain and the back mountain. Many people often confuse the front mountain with the back mountain, but they are entirely different attractions. The back mountain is 18 kilometers away from the front mountain, requiring about two hours for a round trip.
Typically, first-time visitors opt to explore the front mountain and the Dujiangyan Scenic Area in a single day, which is what I chose to do. The front mountain is known for being a filming location for the 1986 version of "Journey to the West," which makes it particularly intriguing to me.
One of the scenes from the 1986 version of “Journey to the West”.
Versus the real scene.
The back mountain boasts stunning peaks, clear streams, and numerous secluded springs, offering an even more tranquil experience. If you have an extra day, consider visiting the back mountain the following day.
I booked an All-Inclusive Private Day Tour of Mount Qingcheng and Dujiangyan on Tripadvisor for SGD 544. The tour, operated by WestChinaGo, was guided by FiFi, a friendly and easy-to-talk-to young lady who made the entire trip enjoyable. It was a great choice to book a tour instead of going on my own, as signs inside can be scarce or unclear. If going alone, it's best to get a map in advance or purchase one for 5 RMB. Our driver dropped us off at the mountain gate. From there, a sightseeing bus costs 10 RMB per person to reach the scenic area entrance, a 40-minute walk otherwise.
The paths are mostly stairs, and I felt that the climb was slightly exhausting.
The great thing is that are many stops along the way to rest and eat, with sedan chairs available for those who get tired.
The smell of pepper cured sausages along the way was incredibly enticing, and I bought one to try.
I didn’t manage to take a photo of the sausage, but captured a photo of the stir-fried potato cubes (锅巴土豆). I thought the food tastes a little too salty for my liking. Most of the food in Chengdu is spicy as well.
Halfway through the climb, a Taoist priest asked if we would like to have some glutinous rice balls. They were pretty good, not too sweet and really affordable. We had to wash our own chopsticks and bowls using tap water without soap and I was concerned if they would do a second wash afterwards. Thankfully, we did rinse the bowl and chopsticks with hot water before adding the glutinous rice balls. Despite my initial concerns, I didn’t get any tummy ache afterwards, and it feels really blissful to be able to have glutinous rice balls in a temple high up in the mountains. As we were eating the glutinous rice balls, there were a number of temple visitors who joined in as well and we have a good chat together.
Be mindful not to drink too much water, as there aren’t many toilets along the way. The toilet that I visited does not have doors and has really low walls. It was pretty awkward looking at my tour guide and making small talk while trying to wriggle out of my pants.
There were a number of beautiful photo spots along the way.
At the peak of the first summit of Mount Qingcheng is Laojun Pavilion (老君阁), which stands at an altitude of 1,260 meters. From its top, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Mount Qingcheng and the surrounding cityscape. The pavilion has a circular base and square top, which symbolise the ancient Chinese belief in a round sky and square earth. Each floor has eight sides, representing the Bagua (八卦). The tower-like structure is topped with three circular treasures, symbolising the unity of heaven, earth, and humanity.
The view from the peak is like a scene out of a Chinese brush painting.
Do note that the upper third of the climb involves old, uneven stone paths that are steep and more challenging to navigate. I held on to the metal chain tightly for fear of tripping and falling. Eventually, I took the cable car down. I started the climb at 10 AM and returned to the entrance at around 2 PM.
Opening Hours:
8.00 AM - 5.30 PM
Tickets:
Front Mountain: Adults 80 RMB, Students 40 RMB
Back Mountain: Adults 20 RMB, Students 10 RMB
Round-trip sightseeing bus: 35 RMB
Cable car: 35 RMB
Remember to bring along your passport as you will need it to purchase the tickets.
DUJIANGYAN IRRIGATION SYSTEM
Nestled near Mount Qingcheng, the Dujiangyan Irrigation System (都江堰水利工程) stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site and a testament to ancient engineering.
History of Dujiangyan Irrigation System:
Its story dates back over two millennia to 256 BC, when the visionary engineer Li Bing (李冰) and his son designed this irrigation system to tame the unpredictable Minjiang River (岷江). Historically, the Chengdu Plain was frequently plagued by devastating floods. However, after the system was implemented, the region transformed into a "Land of Abundance (天府之国)," known for its consistent agricultural yields and absence of famines, becoming the "granary" that fueled the Qin state’s conquests. In fact, the name “Tianfu (天府)” in Tianfu International airport is derived from the historical nickname of the Chengdu Plain—Land of Abundance.
Tianfu International Airport
How the Dujiangyan Irrigation System Work:
What sets Dujiangyan apart from other hydraulic projects is its ingenious use of natural geography, employing a combination of weirs, channels, and levees to manage water flow without the need for a single dam.
To truly appreciate Dujiangyan, it's essential to understand the principles behind its design. Here's what I learned from my guide:
The Fish Mouth (鱼嘴): This water-dividing project, named for its shape, is located at the center of the river. It divides the Minjiang River into two streams—the inner river, which provides irrigation, and the outer river, which manages flood discharge. The division ratio is approximately "four-six," with the larger portion directed to flood management.
The Baopingkou (宝瓶口): This is the water intake project, an artificially carved gap in Mount Yulei (玉垒山). Its narrow top and wide bottom channel water into the inner river, irrigating the vast farmlands of the Chengdu Plain. During flood seasons, excess water flows over the Feisha Weir and into the outer river, with the Baopingkou also helping to control the flow and prevent flooding.
The Feisha Weir (飞沙堰): This structure serves a dual purpose—flood overflow and sediment discharge. It redirects excess water from the inner river to the outer river, safeguarding the Chengdu Plain from floods. The weir also uses centrifugal force to expel sand and gravel, preventing the silting of the inner river, Baopingkou, and irrigation channels.
The journey through Dujiangyan began at the Anlan Suspension Bridge (安澜桥), a charming walkway offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the fast-flowing Minjiang River below. The gentle sway of the bridge added a touch of excitement to the experience, and from this vantage point, the view of the "Fish Mouth" is nothing short of spectacular.
Anlan Suspension Bridge. The water is super blue!
The Fish Mouth
The Baopingkou
The Feisha Weir
What amazed me most about Dujiangyan is its continued relevance today. Unlike modern dams that obstruct natural water flow, this ancient system allows the river to flow freely, supporting aquatic life while still providing vital water resources for agriculture and drinking. Dujiangyan is not just a historical relic; it's a living example of sustainable engineering that harmonises with the environment—a lesson with profound relevance in our modern world.
The tour of Dujiangyan takes about 3 hours, and understanding its complexity is greatly enhanced by a knowledgeable guide. I was grateful to have opted for a private tour, which provided deeper insights into the wisdom and ingenuity behind this ancient hydraulic marvel.
Opening Hours:
Summer Season (April 1 - October 31): 8.00 AM to 6.00 PM
Winter Season (November 1 - March 31): 8.00 AM to 5.30 PM
Tickets:
Standard Adult Ticket: 80 RMB
Discounted Ticket: Typically 50% off for students, seniors, and military personnel, 40 RMB.
Free Entry: Children under 6 years old or under 1.2 meters in height.
For dinner, we went to the South Bridge (南桥), an area bustling with a wide variety of eateries.
KUANZHAI ALLEY
Kuanzhai Alley (宽窄巷子) is a well-preserved historicaland cultural district in Chengdu, blending modern Chinese trends with history. The area is filled with numerous small attractions, each worthy of a closer look, and is home to many famous eateries. Though it can get crowded, the lively atmosphere adds to its charm.
History of Kuanzhai Alley:
These alleys date back to the Qing Dynasty, around 1718, when they were originally part of a military garrison. Over the centuries, they evolved into a residential area and, more recently, have been revitalised as a cultural and commercial hub. Walking through these alleys feels like stepping back in time, with well-preserved courtyards, traditional Sichuan-style buildings, and cobblestone pathways.
Kuanzhai Alley consists of three parallel alleys: Wide (宽), Narrow (窄), and Well (井).
The Wide Alley (宽巷子):
The widest of the three alleys, it preserves the traditional courtyard houses (四合院) and old-style residences from the Ming and Qing periods. Many of these courtyards have been transformed into boutique hotels, teahouses, and museums, each offering a unique window into Chengdu's past.
The Narrow Alley (窄巷子):
The Narrow Alley is more compact, with buildings closely packed on either side. It is lined with quaint shops, art galleries, and cozy cafes. Here, one will be able to find local handicrafts, traditional snacks, and modern art installations that add a touch of the unexpected to the ancient setting.
The Well Alley (井巷子):
Connecting Wide Alley and Narrow Alley, Well Alley serves as a transitional space between the two. It's a quieter, more secluded spot, perfect for taking photos or just relaxing.
Night Wanderings in Kuanzhai Alley:
I visited the Kuanzhai Alley at night and the alleys are beautifully illuminated, and the air was filled with the sound of traditional Chinese music mixed with the buzz of conversation. Although I didn’t indulge in the local snacks, I thoroughly enjoyed immersing myself in the local culture, browsing through the array of goods from local artists.
A highlight of my visit was Holiland (好利来), a must-visit for dessert lovers. The store offers many exquisitely designed cakes that incorporate iconic Sichuan elements like pandas, mahjong, and covered-bowl tea. What’s even more special is that they have Chengdu-exclusive cakes that you can only find at Kuanzhai Alley, each one crafted with delicate detail and irresistible charm.
I couldn't resist trying the panda-themed cake, which I initially approached with some hesitation, worried it might just be pretty but not tasty. However, it turned out to be surprisingly delicious! The cake features an outer layer of white chocolate, and inside, it's layered with three different flavors of cream—matcha, chocolate, and milk—resting on a biscuit base. The pandas themselves are made entirely of chocolate, which I quite like even though they were a little too sweet.
I also picked up a few cakes to bring home as souvenirs, though I must admit, I didn’t enjoy them quite as much.
Other spots to visit include the Pop Mart store, which is popular among toy enthusiasts.
Another popular spot is the Grandpa Panda's stall (熊猫爷爷), known for its panda-themed merchandise. The stall is really easy to spot by the crowds gathered outside. The neighbouring stalls also sell similar items, and the styles are generally the same but the prices can be slightly higher. I ended up buying three canvas bags as souvenirs.
There are also several teahouses in Kuanzhai Alley that host Sichuan Opera performances, famous for their "face-changing" acts. If you plan to attend a performance, be sure to confirm both the tea seat fee and the cost of the tea to avoid any unexpected charges.
Address: No. 127, Section 1, Xi'an Road, Qingyang District, Chengdu, Sichuan, China
中国四川省成都市青羊区西安北路一段127号
ALL IN ALL…
Mount Qingcheng is a place where nature and spirituality intertwine. Visiting Dujiangyan is more than just a trip—it’s a journey through time, nature, and human achievement. It’s a place where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony, and every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered. There is a chinese saying: 问道青城山，拜水都江堰, which translates to ‘seek enlightenment at Mount Qingcheng and pay homage to the Dujiangyan waterworks’.
The saying, 问道青城山，拜水都江堰, carved into the stone.
If you find yourself in Chengdu, don’t miss the opportunity to allocate at least one day to explore the mystical Mount Qingcheng and Dujiangyan.
Love,
Shu
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